Near Freeport – July 13th
I’m writing this from yet another campground, this one a few miles north of Freeport, ME, which is very near Portland. Tomorrow I’ll ride into Portland and, on the advice of locals, take the Amtrack to Boston (apparently costs $25 and $5 for the bike – no bike box required, as in Europe, there’s a special bike car). Apparently the ride between Portland and Boston isn’t great so who am I to blow against the wind…
Today’s 48-mile ride started well on a rail bike trail south along the Kennebec River for the first seven miles south of Augusta.
There was no wind and with an 8 AM start, a comfortable temperature. Once the rail trail ended, however, it was back to hills and increasing heat (high 80s) on a secondary highway with sparse traffic (Route 24) until Richmond, a small town north of Brunswick ME. There I met a couple of local rec. bikers who informed me (a.) of the Amtrack option to Boston and (b.) that I’d crossed Maine’s fat/skinny divide a few km north of the town. and (c.) that the ride south would subsequently get less hilly, which was almost true except for the last five miles. The fat/skinny divide strangely seems to be holding up because the people I’ve subsequently observed today have definitely been skinnier. Something in the water perhaps? I’ve also now started meeting other recreational cyclists.
There was no wind and with an 8 AM start, a comfortable temperature. Once the rail trail ended, however, it was back to hills and increasing heat (high 80s) on a secondary highway with sparse traffic (Route 24) until Richmond, a small town north of Brunswick ME. There I met a couple of local rec. bikers who informed me (a.) of the Amtrack option to Boston and (b.) that I’d crossed Maine’s fat/skinny divide a few km north of the town. and (c.) that the ride south would subsequently get less hilly, which was almost true except for the last five miles. The fat/skinny divide strangely seems to be holding up because the people I’ve subsequently observed today have definitely been skinnier. Something in the water perhaps? I’ve also now started meeting other recreational cyclists.
During lunch at an excellent Indian restaurant in Brunswick ME, another local who struck up a conversation with me directed me to this “ must stay” campground.
Truth be told, however, it’s kind of ordinary, even marginal by BC standards. Living in “Supernatural BC”, one gets spoiled. It’s on the Atlantic coast, which I’ve finally reached. There’s apparently an air quality alert, today however, the horizon is an ominous pale orange and I’m wondering if I should be breathing the local brew. This almost makes me nostalgic for some Vancouver rain (I stress the "almost").
Nevertheless, things here have worked out reasonably well. I’ve been hob-nobbing and drinking beer with a 20-something foursome (two couples) who adopted me as I entered the campground and insisted I join them. Everyone’s apparently curious about – or feels sorry for - the old guy on the loaded bike and I almost get more company than I want. My reservations about such company quickly evaporate if they provide free beer however, as was the case here. Anyway, it’s dark now, the bugs have arrived and so to bed.
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